A young man with a spiky mohawk aggressively jumps in the front row, surrounded by a throng of head-bangers. He is centered in the front of the mosh pit. Outfitted in ripped jeans and a worn black t-shirt, he has a large neck tattoo. One hand is in the air banging back and forth to the beat. The other hand tightly grips a large stein of beer.

Welcome to the 11^th annual Festival in Cagli, an Italian festival for all.

On any given night of the festival, one can hear the mixed sounds of children’s playful screaming, the chattering of young girls who are peeking at the boys around the corner, the faint accordion music, and the informal “Ciao”s being called out as people enter and exit the festival.

Carnival games light up the night sky, seducing festival-goers with flashing bulbs.  The sound of ringing bells announces the newest winner. Young men gather around a punching bag game that promises to reveal who is the most Herculean of the group.

To outsiders, the festival appears to promote drinking and live music and at first glance, may not appear to be a family and community event. However, that is exactly what Festival in Cagli is.

The festival provides a touch of something for everyone. If stinging rock offends the ears, festival-goers can enjoy German polka. Older, spry dancers twist and turn across the chocolate, symmetrical dance floor.

The festival offers American hot dogs and hamburgers, Bavarian spicy cuts of meat, and salty soft pretzels. The festival food doesn’t stray from traditional Italian fare, offering local pasta including a gooey mix of mozzarella and parmesan cheese paired with an array of sweet tomato sauces.

Patrons can enjoy their food under brightly lit white tents, which cover picnic tables and benches. These benches become more popular throughout the night, as they serve as a place to observe fellow festival-goers.

Festival director Luca Ascani originally created the concept, fashioned after Germany’s Oktoberfest. In the early years of the festival, mostly younger Italians attended for the beer and live music.  Ascani wanted something more for his beloved home town.

“We wanted to be able to involve the whole community on every level,” Ascani explains. “This is why we [now] have bouncy castles, a dance floor for waltzing, and beer.”

The organized floor plan provides ample space for each age group to socialize and take part in all the thrilling festivities.

Live music continues to be an integral part of the festival, hosting popular ska, hip-hop, heavy metal, disco, and rock bands.

Beer’s popularity is growing in Italy. Cagli and the Marche region are frontrunners in Italy for beer consumption. Cagli boasts a beer-tasting association; local restaurant Squaqua brews its own beer; and nearby town Apecchio has the first brewery in the province.

There are three different sizes of beer available and a range of choices.

Many attendees choose to buy the medium-sized stein, which has the Festival in Cagli logo printed on the side. The red, white, and yellow logo pays tribute to Cagli, as it has the Rocca Torrione in the background, overflowing with beer.

For those serious about beer drinking, the largest stein holds one liter of beer and weighs roughly five pounds, the equivalent to the weight of a small bag of potatoes. This provides an arm workout for even the most seasoned drinker.

If patrons bring either sized stein back to the festival, they can refill these for a reduced price.

“In Cagli, we like to drink, especially beer,” says resident Marco Valeri. “While I love both, I prefer beer to wine. Beer is for relaxing with friends.”

White or red wines are available at the festival for those averse to beer.

Families from Smirra, Pianello and Scheggia ride busses to the festival. The community event is popular throughout the Marche region.

“It is a party done by a bunch of people to bring together a bunch of people,” tells Festival in Cagli bartender Giulia Rossi.

Although Festival in Cagli has become more about gathering as a community, there are still many who enjoy the event for its original pleasures.

Consistent attendee Andrea Garofoli frankly explains why he is always excited for the yearly festival. “I like beer and I come for the girls.”

The post Brewing a Community Tradition appeared first on Gonzaga Study Abroad in Cagli, Italy 2014 .

One o’clock hits and the need for a crisp, refreshing dive in the Burano River calls. The calm river excites the people of Cagli as the brilliant sun burns heavily over the quaint town.

Cagli is nestled between two rivers, the Bosso and Burano. The Burano River, the larger of the two, offers several swimming holes that attract young and old alike to share in community.

Pausa, a time to rest and relax after lunch, commences and an option to cool down from the scorching sun-filled day is to take a dip in the Burano. One popular location is the river bank, located a short walk from the center of Old Cagli. Recently, the city invested in the creation of a sandy beach to make it more inviting for residents and visitors.

People from all over the Italian countryside come to experience the river.

“Every person, no matter what the age, comes down here throughout their lives,”said Antonio Urbinati, a resident of Cagli.

Some might come to the river to watch their little ones play, while others take the time to catch up on their suntans. Most of all, the river is a place where everyone can gather and enjoy the essence of nature.

Antonio drives his white Fiat down a windy paved pathway leading toward the bank of the Burano.  During the day Antonio is a busy man who constructs elaborate model-size cars. He takes time from his day to visit the river. He gazes over his children playing in the water while he takes shade in his car.  He has come to this spot since he was a little boy.

“The people all come together at the Burano. This river symbolizes community,”says Antonio. To him, the Burano is pristine and more peaceful than taking a bus to the beach.

A little way down the riverbank from Antonio is a mother with her two young children jumping off the rugged boulders.

Nadia Biancarelli is a resident of Gubbio, close by to Cagli.  She is new to visiting the Burano River and delights at such a majestic place.

“People of all ages can enjoy this river and it doesn’t cost a thing,”comments Nadia.

As she watches her children with a sense of relaxation, she takes in the beautiful serene surroundings that neighbor the Burano.

“With all the people present, the atmosphere is still quiet and enjoyable,”Nadia said.

The river reminds Nadia of older, simpler times. Nadia reflects on the moments when her grandfather gave her a passion for swimming.

The Burano river has a significance that dates back centuries.  During the Medieval period, the river was a defense and deflected intruders from invading Cagli.

The Romans built the city between the two rivers rather than in the hills.  These two rivers originate at a distant spring and help cultivate the land with the flow of fresh water.

Linda Sebastianelli, a resident of Cagli and barista at Caffe’d’Italia, tries to enjoy time away by visiting the Burano, but sometimes the responsibilities of adult life get in the way.

“I would love to be able to enjoy more time down by the river, but I have to work,”said Linda.

There are certain parts along the river that have become favorites to the residents.

“The younger people go out toward the waterfalls,”said Linda.

Stepping on the warm granular sand causes a sense of bliss.  Standing in the fresh transparent waters allows a person’s body to cool down and embrace the luscious green surroundings.  Birds are bathing, kids are excitingly jumping off rocks, and long overdue conversations are held between friends.

Life slows down when wading in the water and watching nature.  Families reunite with a picnic of pecorino cheese and fig jelly as they watch their children enjoy the fine nature that lay before them.

Nadia watches her son climb the jagged rocks and jump off repeatedly. One of the times he cut himself.  Instead of running to his aid, she watched him deal with his injury.  “He was calm about it because down here you are one with nature,”Nadia proudly omits.  When enjoying the serene settings at the Burano, nothing else matters.

Some towns have the beach, some have lakes, Cagli has its rivers.

The post The Essence of the River appeared first on Gonzaga Study Abroad in Cagli, Italy 2014 .

A steady stream of footsteps resounds in the coolness of the causeway. Laughing children skip, holding one another’s hands. Focused and determined, a businessman hurries past with an armload of documents, followed by a woman who rushes in and out of the shadowed passage. An older man shuffles by, contemplating the day.

These are just some of the scenes that take place outside the Polo Culturale d’Eccellenza Cagli (Cultural Center of Excellence- Cagli). Pietro Pazzaglia, the only volunteer at the Center, silently monitors these comings and goings. Pietro loves the ancient history and rich culture of Cagli. He comes to read the archived records and timeworn books. The tomes tell of marching Roman soldiers, wealthy textile merchants, gifted artisans, and the rivers that have blessed this town since the beginning of time.

“The library is the well that keeps giving water, ” reflects Pietro. As the Center’s only volunteer, he believes his mission is to share knowledge with the children. “Libraries are the connection between people sharing a common culture,” Pietro quietly muses, “and the children are who perpetuate that culture.”

On December 12, 2012, the Palazzo Berardi Mochi-Zamperoli opened its doors as the Cultural Center of Excellence- Cagli. The palace was renovated to create space for the new cultural center. It functions as the municipal library, as well as a historical archive, photo library, and media center. In a combined effort, the City of Cagli, the Provinces of Pesaro and Urbino, and the Regional Ministry of Heritage and Culture, designed the space specifically to serve the area’s young people.

The Center’s space intentionally connects the history, media, art, and study rooms to a hub, which doubles as a focal point for those seeking services and a children’s reading area. Because all the sections are connected, mothers can confidently leave their children in the reading area as they go to one of the adjoining rooms. There, the women search for books and other media while their kids explore the many colorful books donated by the townsfolk.

The Center’s staff, Giada Fiorucci, Francesco Amadori, and Maddalena Paolini, are more than librarians. They have advanced degrees in culture, history, public service, and library sciences from the University of Urbino. As Cultural Attachés they act as cultural liaisons to the City of Cagli and the other nearby towns. The team dedicates much of its time to helping children of immigrant families with Italian language and culture. Children ranging in age from five to 16 often go to the center for help with schoolwork.

Giada’s face lights up when she talks about these children. She is especially proud of the work the Center does to help them understand Italian culture, as well provide an opportunity for children to share stories of their heritage. Giada recounts a project where they created handwritten stories and drawings of Moroccan, Albanian, Chinese, Macedonian, Moldavian, and Ukrainian histories. She displayed the posters so the Cagliesi could learn about the new members of their community.

Many students aspiring to attend university rely on the Center’s free wi-fi, six state-of-the-art computers, and two Kindle book-readers downloaded with 150 books. The Center is one of seven interconnected libraries in the region, which is important to students requiring access to a wide range of educational materials.

Maddalena Paolini enjoys her work, which she says helps promote the creativity of others. In addition to traditional librarian duties, she coordinates and organizes book readings and art exhibitions for local and regional authors and artists. “I love to read, love to study hard, and love history,” says Maddalena. “This library has the history and archives here that I love.” Overall, she says these events contribute to the ever-growing history and culture of Cagli.

Teens also come to the library in search of a little fun. Perky Sophia Scarpellini brings her out-of-town friends to the center. The animated trio hopes to find summer entertainment in the form of young adult movies and books. She says they are looking for “fierce love” stories. They like to read adventure stories like Aragon, The Hunger Games, and the Twilight books. Sophia appreciates the Center for more than its amusing books and videos. “The library is quiet for studying,” says Sophia, “and, it’s free!”

Giada is anxious about how much longer the services of the library will continue. “Everything is free and free doesn’t last forever,” she worries. However, for now, this well continues to give water freely to refresh all who enter the center. And, as Pietro says, “this is water you better drink.”

The post Cultural Center of Excellence: The Well That Keeps Giving appeared first on Gonzaga Study Abroad in Cagli, Italy 2014 .

The cobblestone archway frames the inset glass windows and the purple strand door. Claudio Matteucci transports tables and chairs outside the storefront for guests to enjoy the fresh summer night away from the heat of the kitchen.

Claudio and his wife bring a new flavor to Cagli. Claudio says, “I decided to play the cards I was dealt,” after the factory he worked at closed.

With his wife, Claudio opened Marrakech Kebab in December 2013. Claudio, a native from the Marche region, extensively researched other kebab shops to discover vendors, flavor profiles, and distributors. These are the ingredients that contribute to his successful menu today.

Tucked quietly on the corner, away from the main buzz of the piazza, down the street from the old art school, Marrakech Kebab is a newly uncovered gem. The small, rectangular, flashing neon sign and the simple vertical menu on the left storefront window are markers of the up-and-coming restaurant. Claudio is often seen at the outside plastic green table, waiting to greet hungry patrons.

Inside, the warm red and mustard yellow walls create a welcoming atmosphere. The small single six-sided mirrors form a larger image reflecting the kitchen and diners roaming the store. A small shelf lines the top half of the back wall carrying a hookah, an elephant with a raised trunk, and other vases, establishing a distinct environment. Diners see Marrakech Kebab as the new kid on the block.

Kebabs typically are made from lamb roasted on a vertical rotisserie; however, Marrakech Kebab takes a different spin and uses turkey. Shaved from the top down, the crispy, thin, small bites are dressed in a variety of fresh vegetables including light lettuce, juicy tomatoes, and pungent onions. Next, sauces slowly topple over the mountain of food, slopping over the soft pita or flat wrap. Flavors such as ketchup, mayonnaise, or a Greek yogurt sauce, break away from traditional Italian tastes. Neatly sandwiched inside a pita or embraced by a wrap, kebabs make the perfect handheld meal.

In addition, vegetarians can find appealing food. Falafel, often composed of chickpeas or fava beans, is deep fried before being outfitted in a similar way as the meat kebabs. The thick, crispy outside protects a softer center ready to be accompanied with the same fresh vegetables and flavor-enhancing sauce.

Every handmade piece is carefully crafted to each customer’s palette. Guests peer curiously through the glass overlooking the vegetable bins, observing the makings of the new cuisine.

Diners can expect a surprisingly flavorful bite when they eat the juicy morsels. Claudio checks in on each customer, making sure they are enjoying their meal. Eager to continue perfecting his craft, Claudio always welcomes feedback from the guests.

Patrons experience the multitude of flavors swirled together and find what best suits them. “I prefer the flat pita bread because it keeps the original flavors,” says Christian Blasi Toccaceli, a weekly visitor. Pulling out his stamp card, showcasing two marked squares, Christian boasts he is working to earn a free dish, with only seven more kebabs to go.

Alessio Luchetti enjoys the tranquil, quiet environment, which he describes as “effective, welcoming service.” Often, Claudio intermingles with diners because he appreciates their company and enjoys the experience. Stressing the community-like environment, Claudio delivers spectacular guest service, which ensures dinners get the most from their visit. This informal atmosphere makes the restaurant unique.

The ambiance of the restaurant varies based on the times guests arrive. After pausa, customers can experience a laid back, low-key environment and grab a snack as the town slowly awakens. Gradually as the evening emerges, the store transforms into a favorite spot to enjoy kebabs and a cold beverage. Later, music plays through the speakers and creates a lively scene. Claudio is willing to stay open as late as needed, offering visitors late night snacks.

With no advertising, Claudio relies on referrals for business. An increase in business shows the food is good, the Cagliesi are embracing kebabs, and that Claudio is building relationships.

Besides a positive, friendly personality and delicious food, Claudio has faith his business will continue to grow. “It is important to have patience because every day gets better,” Claudio says as he genuinely smiles and light-heartedly winks with his big, brown left eye. Claudio believes in his food, his diners and his town.

The post A New Taste to Town appeared first on Gonzaga Study Abroad in Cagli, Italy 2014 .

When patrons step into the Loft Parrucchieri they are welcomed by the sweet aroma of Liza’s blueberry cake. Women of Cagli not only come to The Loft to maintain their feminine beauty. They come for a dose of Liza’s maternal wisdom and care.

This quaint and stylish salon may be the brainchild of Liza’s son Matteo, yet Liza was his inspiration. Liza Violini began styling women’s hair at the age of 14; at the time she never dreamed her son would become one of the most renowned hairstylists in Italy.

The regal redhead has over 60 years experience styling hair and making women beautiful. Cheerfully, Liza boasts of time spent with faithful older customers, leaving the younger generation to her son and his protégé’s.  Liza takes great joy in passing these talents on to her beloved son. “I am very proud him,” Liza exclaims with a bright smile. “It brings me great satisfaction to see everything he has done.”

From a young age, Liza saw how intelligent her son was. “He was a very bright child, too bright for his own good” she chuckles. Matteo’s potential emerged during the years he spent helping Liza. Liza was sure to nurture his talents.

It wasn’t until after Matteo’s mandatory year in the military that he came to his mother for advice on his future. Liza told him he was talented enough to become a hairstylist. Taking his mother’s advice, he followed in her footsteps and dedicated a year to training. Today, Liza’s encouragement has helped birth five chains of colorful, yet elegant Loft salons.

Fifteen years ago the doors of the Loft Parrucchieri were opened in Cagli. The Loft’s goal has always been to give astute attention to each customer. A keen eye for perfection is seen in each cut and color. Bleach blonde highlights, layered cuts, and curls that bounce with flair are just some of the detailed cuts found at The Loft.

Liza beams with pride about her son and her upcoming trip to Paris where he will receive an award for the best hairstylist in Italy. It is a mother’s dream to witness the great accomplishments of her child; therefore, Liza is eagerly waiting to stand by his side.

Liza’s strong encouragement to Matteo, assuring him that his talents would payoff, is the same maternal wisdom Matteo passed on to Letizia Renga, who continues to work with Liza at The Loft.  Letizia, a warm-hearted woman with an edgy short haircut, spent her college years pursuing a degree in nursing. Like Liza, Matteo cultivated Letizia talents, convincing her to leave nursing school to train under him.  Letizia rose to the challengeand is now happily living her dream working as a hairstylist.

Letizia travels with Matteo and the entire Loft team to the fashion capitals of Italy for exotic photo shoots, high-end fashion shows, and specialized training. “I specialize in coloring and dying,”Letizia explains. “I consider myself a chemist. It takes a lot of research in order to stay current on whatis trending and what is also best for my clients.”

Letizia, however, is not just a hairstylist. She is also a nurturing friendwho caters to each woman who steps into The Loft. Letizia’s loving-nature is reflected in her eyes. Her fulfillment comes both through perfected hair care, and the joy of forming relationships with her customers. “I love coming to the Loft, they are simply the best,” faithful customer Edy Buraia confidently expresses.  Edy and her daughters have been coming to The Loft since its inception.

Letizia recently was appointed director of The Loft in Cagli and Liza serves as her motherly mentor. Liza and Letizia share an intimate friendship that helps create the sweet and inviting atmosphere of the salon. The ladies of The Loft savor blueberry cake, stories about upcoming social gatherings, and the latest in Cagli news. Most importantly, they share their dreams.

Everyday generations of Cagliesi women walk into the doors of The Loft, leaving with a greater sense of style and words of maternal wisdom. Liza’s encouragement to her son serves as an example of how far one’s dream can go.

Cagli may be a small town, but it is where Liza perfected her hairstyling technique and where Letizia found her passion for cutting and coloring hair. Cagli is home to the very first Loft Parrucchieri; a great reminder of the importance of a mother’s inspiration.

The post A Mother’s Inspiration appeared first on Gonzaga Study Abroad in Cagli, Italy 2014 .

Antonella expertly drives her heather-gray Opel through the tapestry of old town Cagli, traversing a narrow course of stone-paved streets. In the early July evening, the river beneath the bridge to New Cagli shimmers in the golden sunset. Antonella angles the car right, coaxing it up a tree-canopied lane toward the sports complex.Here, the drum corps, La Compagnia dei Tamburi di Cagli, practices for Cagli’s spectacular annual festival, the Palio dell’Oca.

Revived in 1987 as a celebration of Cagli’s greatness, the Palio is a window into Renaissance life. Cagliesi dress in full regalia and relish tournaments, music, food, and jousts in a city festooned with elaborate decorations. Residents prepare enormous meals in pots the size of wash buckets. Everyone has a role, and the young people of La Compagnia have chosen the drum competition.

Slipping out of her car, Antonella grasps her drum by its brown leather strap and sets it on the walk by the gym. A squat white cylinder with rims of banana-yellow and sky-blue, the drum sports a yellow-and-blue shield splashed with a red X. The buzz of an approaching motorbike signals the arrival of Chiara and Lucia and their brown-barreled, ivory-rimmed drums.

Soon, cars and motorbikes invade the lot, depositing a dozen 18- to 30-year-old drummers. The air is heavy with exhaust fumes, cigarette smoke, and the chatter of assorted conversations. Drums varying in size, shape, color, and age dot the spaces between gatherings. Older drums, like Antonella’s, are decked with colorful rims and distinctive emblems, while newer ones are plain but offer superior sound quality.

“Designs on older drums symbolize Cagli’s four neighborhoods, ” offers Alberto, who wears a Stay Fly t-shirt and brown wayfarer glasses.

Sant’Angelo, Sant’Agostino, San Francesco, and Sant’Andrea: Each neighborhood is named for its patron saint. “In the Palio, neighborhoods vie to win the Gioco dell’Oca, the game of the goose,” Alberto explains. “The roll of the dice determines the winner, but games like archery, tug-of-war, races, keg rolling, and our drum competition make it exciting.” The winning neighborhood’s tavern displays the golden goose—actually a wrought-iron sculpture—dressed in the winner’s regalia.

At 9:00 p.m. Adamo, a sturdy man in a white t-shirt and brown shorts, unlocks the gym door. In the past, the neighborhoods practiced alone but this year La Compagnia was formed, uniting drummers from all four neighborhoods.

“It was easier when we practiced separately,” Elisa admits. Lustrous black hair cascades over her shoulders in dreamy teal waves. “Drums from different neighborhoods sound different, and we have to learn more songs than before. But La Compagnia provides structure and it’s good to prepare for the Palio together.”

Fanning out in a circle, the drummers sling wide, leathery straps over their shoulders. Drumsticks perched at the ready, they eye Adamo as he strikes a staccato rhythm: tap-tap, tap-tap tap, tap-tap-tap tapa-tapa tapa-tapa. The others match the cadence, forming smaller circles to face one another. Sound ricochets off gym walls and teeth chatter with the pulsing vibrations.

When the song ends, Elisa, Adamo, and a blond-braided drummer in a red-and-white dress listen to a song on a smartphone. Adamo plays a sample and again, the sharp rapping of drums consumes the dank gym.

Tonight, the drummers sport an assortment of modern wardrobe pieces—t-shirts, shorts, jeans, and casual skirts—but for the Palio, they’ll don velvety coats with matching skirts or pantaloons and blouses in complementary shades. Neighborhood costumes bear distinctive colors and crests: S. Andrea’s blue and yellow, S. Francesco’s red and green, S. Agostino’s pink and black, and S. Angelo’s red and blue.

“I love the Palio because it is unique to Cagli and it involves the whole town,” Elisa declares.

At 10:00, drum straps slip off tired shoulders. A month before the Palio, pressure is light. Yet, the excitement is palpable. “The Palio is indescribable—there is so much to it,” Alberto asserts. Antonella, Matteo, Martina, Chiara, and Sara nod in agreement.

“It’s a spectacular event you must see to truly understand,” Sara adds. “The community spirit—everyone coming together to enjoy the games—that’s what makes it so special.”

Artfully blending tradition with modern attitudes and technology, La Compagnia defines a style that is Cagli’s alone. The sights and sounds of their practices and the costumes they’ll wear provide a taste of the grand times to come when Cagli erupts for the Palio.

The post A Glimpse of the Palio dell’Oca Through the Eyes of Cagli’s Young Drum Corps appeared first on Gonzaga Study Abroad in Cagli, Italy 2014 .

While the Cagliesi sleep after the hustle of life in the medieval city, Barbara and Roberto Ricci work in their bakery, Panificio Ricci. It’s 1 a.m. and Barbara and Roberto are dressed in white uniforms. Flour covers countertops and the kitchen is full of noise. The smell of freshly baked tortes and croissants rises over the neighborhood surrounding Via Benamati.

Owning any small business is a challenge, but these days, owning a bakery might seem archaic, given the late night working hours and changing economic climate.

These difficulties don’t bother the owners of Panificio Ricci. They have perfected the art of balancing the baking needs of croissants, tortes, rolls, and traditional Italian bread. “The breads are difficult to make because all the breads rise at different times,” says Barbara, glancing quickly at the clock every ten minutes to stay on schedule. “Each bread has to be perfect,” Barbara explains, “so you have to watch it rise while working on the other pastries.”

Time is of the essence when supplying bread to markets in Acqualagna, Frontone, and Cagli.  By 3 a.m., Roberto is off in a small white van transporting brown rolls, apricot tortes, and chocolate-filled croissants to the surrounding markets.

When customers walk into Panificio Ricci at 6 a.m. for their breakfast pastries, they might not be aware that Roberto and Barbara have been baking for five hours.

The bakery is known for its craft. “Panificio Ricci breads are traditional,” Leo Martinelli, a loyal customer lounging outside Caffe’ d’Italia insists. “They use traditional methods and a fire oven, which makes their breads better.”

Back in the bakery, the phone rings and Barbara immediately answers it. After a short conversation, she assembles the newest order of rolls. She explains that the biggest competition for Panificio Ricci is the rise of supermarkets, where people are now able to buy frozen bread to bake at home.

The daily convenience of supermarkets has not deterred Roberto and Barbara.  Loyal costumers come into the bakery for breakfast pastries. Panificio Ricci also receives custom orders, requested for holidays and special events. Crescia di Pasqua, a golden bread made with pecorino cheese, is a favorite. “I always order crescia di Pasqua for Easter. It’s delicious,” says Romano Romanini, a long-time Cagli resident.

Barbara and Roberto stay upbeat about the changing conditions. They gain support through a network of other Italian bakery owners. Together, bakery owners attend seminars, encouraging each other and learning new techniques. “Owning a bakery is not too difficult because of the team support that the seminars give us, ”explains Barbra as she adds trays of rich biscotti and rolls to the glass display in the storefront. The network of bakery owners gives hope to the owners of Panificio Ricci because it helps preserve the art of bread making in an increasingly fast-paced world.

In addition to operating the bakery, Roberto and Barbara give back to the community through monetary donations that support research for genetic diseases. Their involvement in the community expands beyond the bakery doors, building a loyal customer base.

Barbara answers the phone for a second time in fifteen minutes, showing how busy the bakery is. After taking more orders, Barbara discusses how Italian taxes impact the business. Taxes in Italy are progressive and based on income. Taxes on businesses are high, threatening their livelihood. The bitterness is evident in Barbara’s voice as she explains the issues with Italian bureaucracy and the penalties if a form is filed incorrectly. “Because the taxes are so high, it is impossible to hire help,” Barbara explains after assisting a customer. “Dealing with the government kills us.”

The noon sun rises higher in the sky, signaling the day’s end for Barbara and Roberto. They don’t know what the future may hold. They want to continue making and selling bread, but with the economic conditions in Italy, change cannot be considered casually.

One thing that doesn’t change, though, is the bread making cycle. “Everyday is the same,” Barbara says. “Start at one and end at one. But we like it.”

The post Panificio Ricci: Success Amidst Difficulties appeared first on Gonzaga Study Abroad in Cagli, Italy 2014 .

An old wooden table inside a semi-dark room with a few pieces of thread, jewelry, and textiles, is what the clothing store used to be until Ada Valeri came along. Ada worked as a barista, later in a factory doing odd jobs. The owner of Il Corso Mercerie Intimo convinced Ada to buy the business with the understanding she would learn how to run the business.

After Ada bought the business, the previous owner trained her for only two days and then she was on her own. “I figured it out,” Ada proclaims. Now Ada and her daughter Paola Pantera own and maintain Merceria Intimo which is located on Corso XX Settembre #12, between Via Fonte del Duomo and Via Bonclerici, just east of the piazza.

It took Ada and Paola a few years to make repairs in the edifice, one year to get fully stocked, and two years to get customers.

Paola is proud to continue the family tradition. “Mom and I can no longer go out and look for a job, so it is best to maintain the business and continue good relationship with our loyal customers,” she explains.

Finding vendors willing to sell merchandise to a small business was difficult. “Big brands have exclusive contracts with special shops and boutiques and I purchase the merchandise from Max Mara Company, Italia brand, and China importation,” Paola reports. Today, the store is filled with men’s and women’s undergarments, threads, textiles, jewelry, trims, laces, buttons, swim suits, and a sewing machine in the back of the room for repairs.

Walking down the street, one might not tell the store exists because there is no name outside the store. Looking in the window, on one side of the room is a rack of women’s swimsuits. Above the swimsuits are pieces of jewelry. On the opposite side of the door, hang kitchen curtains, and men’s shirts.

During business hours, racks of clothing, trims and laces are on display outside of the store to attract customers. Inside there is a wall of colorful threads, rows of textiles, and packages of crochet ornaments. Next to the row of threads is a metal ladder used to hang rows of clothing covered in plastic bags.

The store has transformed over the years. In the 1970’s women’s dresses were hidden in boxes instead of displayed on racks. Today, boxes are no longer used and there are numerous steel racks with garments hanging in plastic bags all around the store. One is struck by how many items are stuffed in such a small space.

Paola is aware of the need for a bigger space. “Rent is much cheaper here than moving the business near the piazza,” she explains. All businesses on the block are owned by the Catholic Church, which is why rent is affordable. But affordability comes with a price. There is no water, bathroom, or heater. In the winter, the store stays closed most of the time because it is unbearable to work inside a room with no heater when there is two feet of snow outside.

The store is different from others in Cagli because they sell garments to men and women. “In previous years, women would go in the store to buy men’s underwear, now more men come into the shop to buy their own underwear,” Paola adds. In addition, customers bring garments for any type of repair.

Ada does not make or design clothing. She is known for making sewing repairs or adjustments like adding lace or trim, replacing buttons, and hemming. Custom made repairs make the store special.

Loyal customer Luana Vivani, a tall woman with short wavy hair wearing clear glasses, walks into the store with a smile on her face. Luana has shopped at the store for over 22 years. “My grocery store is right across the street so it makes it convenient for me to shop here,” she explains.

While Luana talks to Paola, two other customers arrive, one wanting to buy buttons, the other wanting a trim sewn on a garment. Customers go in and out throughout the day. Others stop by to say hello.

Mercerie Intimo is a small store with big creative ideas. Ada and Paola built a business with the intent to please their customers. Ada and Paola have loyal customers because over the years they worked hard to provide great customer service.

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An older gentleman with piercing blue eyes rests his wrinkled hand against the cool stone. It’s five in the afternoon and he is perched along a recessed partition in front of city hall in the small town of Cagli, Italy.

The wall, as it is commonly referred to, serves as a bench for many of the town’s locals. As the gentleman sits, he eagerly checks his tarnished gold pocket watch. “At five o’clock I am always looking at my watch. If someone is late I start to worry that they might be found in the cemetery,” jokes Giovanni Buroni, a former professional rugby player and frequent wall inhabitant.

As the church bell rings, more men pour into the piazza. One by one they join Buroni on the wall, gathering like birds on a wire. The men greet each other with warm smiles and the usual friendly banter. “We enjoy passing time here. When we are together, we have no mercy,” declares Franco Donati, a portly man with a cheerful disposition.

The men have known each other since grade school and have been coming to the wall for as long as they can remember. “It feels like we’ve been sitting here all our lives,” chimes Giuseppe “Peppe” Foresto, as his mind starts to wander and a reminiscent grin crosses his face.

These old friends congregate in the same spot, day after day. The only time they did not visit the timeworn wall of city hall was when they left Cagli for work. “We all left because we had no other choice, but we came back to Cagli because it was the best choice,” recalls Donati.

The locals joke that the wall is the last stop for Cagli’s oldest generation before the cemetery, but to Buroni and his friends this old wall is the keystone to Cagli’s center and the root of their happiness and health. “The more we sit here and laugh with each other, the better we feel,” explains Buroni.

Similar to the cold stone of the church located in the piazza—formally called the Duomo—with a hard exterior that houses an exuberant and ornate interior, the men who sit on the wall with their stern gazes are full of passion and zest. On any given day, Buroni and his friends can be found arguing over politics, their hands waving feverishly in front of them. Moments later, they have forgotten their quarrel and laugh so hard their complexions are red as the vine-ripened tomatoes from the local produce shop.

Resting against the wall, the men silently survey the bustle of their picturesque city, watching over the piazza as though they are the guardians of Cagli. Similar to soldiers on the frontline, their gentle eyes are fixed on the horizon, spotting familiar friendly faces and wide-eyed, upturned heads of visitors.

Although the men often sit in silence with their faces as unyielding as the stone behind them, much of their conversations revolve around the day’s gossip and women. “We sit here because it has an incredible view of all the good-looking ladies,” Donati says with a quick wink and a sly smirk.

As the men sit, gently weaving in and out of conversation, time seems to pass too quickly. The bell chimes again, slowly ringing in the seventh evening hour. Gradually, the men gather their belongings and make their exit.

As Peppe leaves, he looks back at the wall with a smile. “We try to get away from each other, but we never can. It always seems like we end up right back here.” He then offers each of his friends a warm handshake and saunters out of the piazza, chuckling to himself with the thought of returning tomorrow.

The men steadily begin to dissipate leaving Buroni sitting in silence. After a few moments pass, he takes a deep breath, smiling as he enjoys the whirling scent of sweet gelato and spicy espresso in the air. Exhaling, he leisurely checks his pockets ensuring he hasn’t left anything behind.

The ashen stone wall is empty, leaving no physical trace of its daily occupants. It is cold, hard, and lifeless. To many, the wall of city hall is merely a weathered stone bench. The bench tells no story; it is of no significance.

To Buroni, however, the wall is everything but that. This wall holds the memories of yesterday and the promises of what tomorrow will bring. Just before exiting the piazza, Buroni takes one last look at his beloved spot and murmurs, “It is simply the best.”

The post The Wall appeared first on Gonzaga Study Abroad in Cagli, Italy 2014 .

A long, winding road snakes around a hill nestled outside old Cagli. Atop the short mountain sits the second-oldest monastery in Le Marche.

Since 1550, it was home to i Cappuccini a Cagli, or monks of the Order of St. Francis, but now, only Fabio Fantoni calls the walled property home.

Fantoni has been caretaker for the monastery for nearly three decades.  He watched it transform from a beacon of the Franciscan order to a place where few come for the view of old Cagli amid picturesque mountains. But, even fewer come to worship.

“This was a masterpiece that was used to copy other monasteries in the region,” Fantoni says. “Now, there are just a few old Cagliesi who still come here to pray.”

From the monastery’s inception in the 16th century, the Franciscan order was removed from the town. Rainwater traveling through curved spouts to a cistern and a lush garden that once provided ripe berries and cool tomatoes allowed members of the order to be self-sufficient. Fantoni says the order also cultivated bees for honey and chickens for eggs. But, as the monastery’s numbers decreased over time, a result of consolidation, their independence diminished and the monks became an integral part of the community.

“They tried to integrate more in recent years,” Fantoni said. “The town took them in and treated them like they were family.”

Marina Sanguinetti, a university student in the nearby town Urbino, remembers the monastery’s integration and its impact during her younger years. She recalls the monks traveling down the gravel road along the front wall that seemed to direct them home as its point came to their front door, past her home on the corner, to reach Cagli. Members of the Order always had a kind word for those they met.

“It was a nice atmosphere,” Sanguinetti said. “There were all like grandfathers to me.”

Marina’s mother, Catherina remembers even farther back to a time when the monks descended the twisting road to Cagli to visit the sick in the hospital and hear confessionals.

“They had a very big presence in the city as a ministry,” Catherina said. “They helped run two parishes in town and the people really took them in.”

Fantoni still welcomes pilgrims on their way to Rome. The front of the monastery displays a high-arching roof to provide cover from the elements, while a yellow concrete bench outside a door signed with the words “Pace e Bene” — or “Peace and Good” — gives travelers a place to lay their heads.

Today, only the cathedral remains open to the public. The house of prayer contains one of only two solid ivory and amber tabernacles — once used to house the body and blood of Christ — remaining in Italy. The baroque-style piece is traced back to an anonymous 17th century cabinet-maker. The base connects pillars to a gold-ordinated top mounted with a simple amber cross. The tabernacle contains a secret latch on its side that monks opened during services.

Just behind the altar, beyond a brick-and-mortar wall is a portrait of San Geronzio — the patron saint of Cagli — offering the town to God for protection. The centerpiece art is tucked away where public eyes rarely gaze. But, Fantoni has no problem opening the short, heavy oak door to allow visitors see the masterpieces etched in the walls throughout the monastery.

A combination of mustiness and history greets those entering the monastery library, housed deep in the center of the compound. The books, Fantoni said, date back to the origin of the monastery, but some original handwritten masterpieces have been recalled to other monasteries in Italy. Now, books of law, art, and religion fill the wooden shelves bowed due to the weight of the lambskin-covered materials.

Now, all the treasures housed behind the sun-tanned exterior have collected dust, as Fantoni is the only person to enjoy them on a regular basis. The thought brings a tear down Catherina’s face as she remembers the time when the monks of the Order were embraced by the town and grew to depend on them for spiritual guidance.

“It goes back centuries,” said Catherina, who lives just down the gravel path to the monastery. “It was like losing a limb when they were gone.”

Fantoni enjoys the solitude, but ventures into town daily to visit with friends and pick up groceries. With just him, it is next to impossible to make the soil produce the volumes of berries, greens, and other colorful edibles it once produced for the Order.

“I used to work the garden, but I just don’t anymore,” Fantoni said. “I’m just too old I guess.”

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